Category: Landscaping

It has been nearly a year since the 30-year-0ld greenhouse was relocated to its current, sunnier location, and it has taken me that long to get even halfway finished with the landscaping. Last year, employment took time away from my favorite hobby, but this year the limiting factor is my back, which is beginning to resent the grind of casting 42 sq ft of concrete path. I work about two squares at a time, working to wrap the walkway around the far side of the greenhouse past the oil tank.

The April 2014 photos show the addition of a sand/gravel path with water-worn bluestone. At .47 a lb and about 40 lbs each, the cost adds up fast, but it adds so much to the look. The clusters of rock on either side hold soil for the thyme and other creeping perennials that I’ve planted there. My goal is to have it look something like this:


KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

 

 

 

 

 

My intent is to create a hardscape around the greenhouse that will absorb heat and reflect light. I purchased several large basalt rocks with unique shapes to stand at the end by the driveway; these have provided nice sitting places for the cats.

I’ve softened the look with a spreading privet honeysuckle that is durable and easy to grow, and marked the path entrance with a mugo pine. DSC_0450

A bell on a post will mark the other side.  On the barn end, a small green lawn will separate the concrete patio from the gate, which fits into a trellis structure I’ll show later when it looks more presentable. A fence will connect the trellis with the deck and inhibit deer movement.

 

The deck will snuggle up against a huge Douglas fir to provide a shady place to sit and overlook the adjacent field.

DSC_0426The ugly oil tank is here to stay, but I’ve left a gravel pad for easy access and removal should that ever come to pass. I hope to get my Virginia creeper to hang from a wire trellis over the thing to hide at least some of the color. Otherwise, I may try to paint it.

 

 

 

A gate will lead down through our new terrace garden, still in the planning stages but soon to be built if the RAIN EVER STOPS.

My goal is to complete both the greenhouse landscape and terracing by August if not sooner.

The guiding plan for the greenhouse portion:

Greenhouse plan, now about 75% complete

Landscaping for a Cool Climate Greenhouse

My life here December through March is one of slogging through mud of varying viscosity, and as I work upon the few ongoing projects that I can when the ground is saturated, I realize how restrictive my environment can be.

My island paradise is built upon a mound of glacial till, dumped here during the Pleistocene glaciation that carved out Puget Sound. A rubble pile is essentially what it is that includes alternating layers of hard clay ‘hardpan’ and unconsolidated gravels. Years ago my mother found a few choice remnants of life from Northern Canada, from which the island partially originated: these included a chunk of sandy rock full of fossil shells and an agate the size of an adult fist.

Alas, the gardening opportunities here are much more limited. My father bought this property cheap – $800 an acre in 1971 – for a reason. Its biggest feature is a central wetland that drains a substantial area of land around it. A series of seeps, intermittent streams, and small wetlands surrounds the larger basin and in winter, everything flows. The partial schematic shows the major drainages in blue, dark green areas are forests, and light green areas are open and  generally represent civilized territories. Excised at the bottom is another wetland complex that flows towards the lake (large blue area) from neighboring properties.

In summer, I can convince myself that lots of things will grow here, but winter inundation quickly changes my mind. Heavy rainfall (18 inches since December 21 with a 5.1 inch ‘surplus’) has turned even what I’d perceived as solid ground into slick mud. It has also allowed me to delineate all of the partially inundated areas where I cannot plant anything not tolerant of flooded, anaerobic conditions.

What then, do I plant?

Willows, rushes, reeds, and iris top the list of course. While my goal is native wetland restoration in the hinterlands, I would like to see a wider variety of plants with color and interest closer to the house and driveway.

Soil will play a large role in this determination. In most of the wet areas on the property, the soils are comprised of heavy clay. In other areas, the soil composition is more of a sandy loam. Often I can dig below a layer of compacted clay to encounter many feet of sandy gravel and reddish mineral soil. These areas drain rapidly, unlike the others that may continue to remain moist all year.

The heavy clay rules out many plant choices, such as the quaking aspen that I recently purchased from my local conservation districts. Wet and well-drained are terms that apply to many plant species, so I have to probe the soil around the wettest areas to find the edges of the more well-drained soils. Sun is another condition that many wetland species prefer, yet I must deal with shade in many areas.

The sketch shows a proposed planting plan for the wetland area beyond the vegetable garden in the photo.

Expanding the local native plant diversity on the property, expanding regional native plant diversity, and introducing wetland-tolerant ornamentals are the goals that I used to generate the following list:

Quaking aspen – I got these for color, but found out after the fact that they need full sun, and moist, well-drained soils and generally prefer higher altitudes. I chose to put them in a woodland opening in a sandy, loamy forest soil at the edge of a wetland where facultative upland species such as alder and willow suggested a higher water table. I think they may end up needing a lot of supplemental water.

Blue elderberry – Sambucus cerulea; This is a regional native plant choice as they seem to occur more often in the drier areas of the state. I know them well from drainage ditches in Central California. Here we have mostly red elderberry, but I wanted to make jam from the blue fruits. These can take a drier soil than the red species, which I have found growing at the edge of the lake. I will likely put them along the drier edges of a wetland adjacent to the garden where the soil stays moist most of the year.

Bald cypress – Taxodium distichum ; This deciduous conifer can take continuous moisture and periodic flooding, plus it provides beautiful fall color in shades of gold.  I will put three along the boggy edge of the wetland where the gold will contrast with the Douglas fir forest backdrop.

Douglas spirea –  Spirea douglasi; These take inundation well, and I am scavenging them from other areas of the property. They have lovely, pink foamy flower clusters that smell wonderful and spread vegetatively.

Red Chokeberry – Aronia arbutifolia; tolerates moist soils but not wet; may be on the property already, but I’m still trying to identify it. Has beautiful orange-red fall foliage and red berries.

Buttonbush – Cephalanthus occidentalis; a Southeastern US native used here as an ornamental; purportedly can tolerate heavy clay soils which would make it a good candidate. Very attractive.

Summersweet – Clethra alnifolia; a Southeastern US nativethat purportedly prefers organic, acidic soils such as found in bogs; may only do well on the loamy soil surrounding the wetlands. Also very attractive. I’d plant this and buttonbush closer to landscaped areas for effect.

Highbush cranberry – Viburnum opulus; I’ve planted lots of these around the garden and found that they prefer moist, organic soil. Otherwise, they take forever to grow and the deer just mow them down to nubs. I plan to move some of those languishing in drier areas to moister places along the edge.

I want to keep most of the wetland open, and will fill in with soft-stemmed bulrush and maybe skunk cabbage already present in abundance elsewhere on the property. I’m also introducing various sedges to replace the ragged field grasses currently present. Ultimately, I want an area with no blackberry, a pleasing succession of color scheme from spring through fall, and a consistent texture throughout the lowest, wettest areas.

 

Sedges (Carex spp.) grow naturally in large clumps on either side of the lake

 

 

 

 

 

Once again, it is saturation time in Western Washington, when the ground has absorbed all that it can and every rainfall runs off into some other place. Despite my best intentions, the work that I did on the front yard wasn’t quite enough to counter the massive amount of water that collects on the driveway and runs off beside the house.

                                           Runoff from driveway, 2010.

I am increasingly convinced that the addition of two additional driveway extensions has contributed to the basement flooding that never existing when I was growing up there.

This stretch of driveway was wooded during the 70’s and 80’s.  Native vegetation, including salal, huckleberry, and sword fern, was sufficient to capture runoff coming down the steeper slope from to the right. Now, this is the lowest point of the driveway by the house and collects rainfall as well as runoff that converges at a point by the cedar tree and pours over a rock wall and down to the lower portion of the house foundation. Water in the basement flows in a direction consistent with this theory.

At first, I considered simply decommissioning this section of driveway by bringing in topsoil, logs and rock to recreate a forest. There were issues however of temporary and longterm erosion, and how to landscape the area so that it would fit into the rest of the garden.

Research into drain systems showed another solution:  a trench drain. Except my version would follow the edge of the driveway rather than crossing it. Therefore, a plastic gutter would be sufficient to carry the runoff. I plan to implement this as soon as I can get my other projects a bit further along.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the topic of experiments with drainage is a reroute of driveway drainage into the lake.

This ditch once carried water from the driveway ditchline and a neighbor’s wetland out to the county road ditchline. A few hours of slinging mud and I was able to dig out a trench to reroute the flow – at times in excess of 5 cfs – into the lake. My ultimate goal is to correct drainage issues such as this to keep the lake as full as possible throughout the year.

The above photo was taken at the lower end of this 5 acre open water wetland. The dam that maintains it is in the foreground. Most of the water that flows over the property reaches this basin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solving driveway runoff

Close one. A windstorm brought down a Douglas fir within 20 feet of this truck.

Now that my father is in assisted living, and the small-engine mechanic tenant has left, I’ve no one left to run a chainsaw, man-handle the 200 pound brush mower, start the gas-powered trimmer, or fix the riding mower that always seems to have intractable problems. I’m on my own now.

Thus, when a large tree fell across the driveway the other day, I felt frustratingly helpless. I have a small Stihl chainsaw that belonged to my father, and I’ve had lessons in filing the chain, starting it, and even running it. But I cannot start it alone (it requires more strength and weight than I have), and, frankly, I’m scared of the thing. I’ve a poor track record with knifes and saw blades, so imagine what I could do to myself with a chainsaw (my father told me I’d probably cut my head off).

I’m therefore left to solicit help from others in exchange for firewood. Such is the arrangement that I have made with a neighbor to cut up the fallen fir.  However, I wanted to do something while waiting for him besides feeling the helpless maiden, so yesterday I limbed and topped the entire tree with my pruning saw and piled the branches into a towering heap. I know a guy with a chainsaw could have done it in minutes, but it was good exercise and made me feel that I was at least putting forth the effort.

It is truly amazing what I can do with my pruning saw.

In fact, I accomplish all of my brush cutting with a pruning saw and a machete. It’s just the big trees that I can’t manage. And the thick grass where I can’t get the regular lawnmowers. For those areas, I use a scythe.

Since my father modified the dam, what is a lake in winter requires mowing in summer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When I explain to people that I almost exclusively use hand tools, they seem to presume that I am intentionally pursuing a ‘green’ lifestyle, but it is really more out of necessity. Still, I appreciate the quiet of a handsaw over the roar of a chainsaw, and the machete is much less destructive than a gas-powered brush blade by allowing me to selectively remove some plants and leave others rather than leveling everything.  Slow can be good.

 

Women on the homestead

  • January 14th, 2014
  • Posted in Landscaping
  • Comments Off on Women on the homestead

I’ve been here four years now, going on five, the longest that I’ve ever lived in one place since I left here as a teen to go to college.  The result is that I’m finally witnessing the long-term results of my landscaping efforts. Many of my installations are at least three years along, and I’ve had plenty of time to see what works and what doesn’t.

1. Use landscape fabric for walkways, and any other place that shouldn’t become a weedy mess.

Above  – looks nice at first (left), but later becomes a weed-infested mess (right). I am now taking up all of the stone (about 1 yard), all of the gravel (2 yds) and replacing with landscape fabric, bark, and pole timber.

2. Deer fencing should keep out the bucks that jump as well as the fawns that crawl beneath. Therefore, it must be a solid barrier at least 6 ft high. And a frightened deer can run through plastic mesh like it wasn’t there so a few rounds of wire are necessary too.

 Cute, but they can get through anything.

3. Absolutely every stick of native plant that I buy from Pierce Conservation District must be protected from deer with fencing or mesh. To do otherwise means that all of my red-osier dogwood, red-flowering currant, cedar, and other plants will be browsed down to maintain a permanent stature of about 2 feet.

Protected willow cutting I propagated over the summer.

4. For many shrubs, fast results require soil enrichment. American highbush cranberry (Viburnum opulus  var. americanum), for instance, will remain three feet tall unless planted in an enriched soil environment. The difference is about four feet in two years.

Above left – Viburnum growing in a cedar stump that acts like a nurse log; Above right – plants of the same age in more compacted soil along the driveway.

5. My favorite shrubs are the ones that have fall and winter color – they carry me through the grey northwest winters.

Cherry trees from North Carolina – planted from seed 38 years ago. They now freely reseed themselves.

Witch hazel (Hamamelis x intermedia) – everyone should have this plant.

6. When in doubt, plant fern. Here, they are freely available (I speak of the native sword fern), grow about anywhere that is not too wet, and give year ’round green cover.

 Native sword fern fills in where I have removed blackberry vines.

 

Accessorize with colored ferns like Dryopteris erythrosora (Autumn fern) which take on a yellow-orange color in winter.

Not  my yard, but wish it was.

7. Improved soil = improved growth = fewer weeds. I now buy mulch for trees and shrubs.  Also starting with larger stock helps save a few years. My gardening resolution for the year is to purchase more large trees and shrubs of the sort that I acquired in December (15 ft plus). However, I will expand my propagation efforts too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The moving of the greenhouse has given me impetus for landscaping the scrappy area surrounding it. About 10 feet to the north was a functional but quite unbeautiful shed my father built flanking a 300 gallon diesel tank.  The site upon which the green house now sits was once as a parking area for his excavator. Now, I wanted to create a space that no longer required mowing (increasing the likelihood for a rock to go through the greenhouse glass),  and that was also low-maintenance and did not block the windows. Cost is always a consideration as well, and when I inventoried the materials that I could acquire most readily and cheaply, stone and logs were high on the list.

 

 My choice of a rock garden also serves another purpose. Light-colored rocks and gravel reflect sunlight back into the green house and absorb heat that can be re-radiated back after dark.

 

The area immediately adjacent to the greenhouse proved easiest to envision.

On the south side, I am planning a slate path surrounded by fine gravel and larger rocks arranged to form pockets within which grasses and creeping plants like thyme and phlox can be planted for texture and color. I particularly look forward to the addition of Zauschneria californica (formerly Epilobium cana) or California fuschia, a personal favorite of mine from my days in Southern California that I’d acquired on the cheap at a recent fall plant sale.

 

 

I wanted to create an attractive centerpiece within a compacted strip of soil about 10 ft x 10 ft between the east end of the greenhouse and the driveway. On a lark, I selected three flat basalt rocks and one taller, sharply angled stone from my local landscape supplier and arranged them in a group to invite sitting.  I lined the work with pieces of flat slate as a transition to the driveway, and to hold back the pea gravel I hauled in to surround the rock.  However, I needed a transition to the rock garden on the south side. As I pondered what it would look like, I began to consider the story that Asian-themed gardens tell using rocks and plants to simulate mountains and forests. Using the large basalt pieces as mountains, I used smaller, but similarly sharp rocks to emulate a tumble of jagged hills that would lead into the rounded river stones that I was using for the rock garden on the south side. A low conifer on the corner will suggest a forest, and provide a secondary focal point for entry into the path.

 

Transitioning from one flat open area to another has been difficult. Dividing space where there are currently no divisions has been difficult, particularly where the hard, compacted soil makes planting either fence or shrub nearly impossible. This has been the greatest challenge, in part because setting sills at ground level requires digging into soil that is like concrete.

 

The diesel tank and former shed are/were adjacent to a small grove of Douglas fir and madrone. I wanted to separate this area from the greenhouse and derived the idea of a dry stack stone wall from time spent in New England observing aged rock walls winding through the forest. I also visualized scenes of natural rock falls in the Cascade Mountains and Sierras, and environmental artist Andrew Goldsworthy’s ‘Storm King Wall’, which winds through a forest in the Hudson River Valley.  My wall, which is currently in the construction phases, is designed to emulate a roughly-stacked pile of rock and will be planted with brightly-hued autumn fern, lined with moss, and flanked with shiny masses of Oregon grape  (Mahonia aquifolium). Originally planned to be about 12 feet long, I am now considering its extension back into the Douglas fir grove as a way to draw the eye into the trees and invite exploration.

 

The front (west end) of the greenhouse will feature, for ease of maintenance, a hardscape walkway leading back to the driveway.  The serenity of the Douglas fir grove suggests a sitting area, so I will construct a small (12’ x 10’) deck that extends from the level of the diesel tank north. The diesel tank, at present unused, may one day be removed, so I’ll keep the area immediately around it as a gravel pad. Between that and the deck will be an area of bark and stone with low conifers and shrubs flanking a gate and fence that will transition into the agricultural areas, to be discussed later.

 

Greenhouse Landscaping

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‘You just saved $125’ the cashier at a local nursery told me the other week. I’d been making the rounds of the plant sales, checking in on those nurseries that I know have discount plant areas. Those that have often discount up to 50%, but one Gig Harbor nursery offered plants at up to 75% off. I took home armloads of bergenias, bridal wreath spirea, hosta, Azalea ‘Orchid Lights’, and several other perennials. I also cruise the discounts at Home Depot, Lowe’s. The other day I netted seven large trees – a river birch, two Eastern red buds, a red maple, and two coral-bark willows – averaging 15 feet tall for less than $150.  The maple was only $5.

 

Many nurseries have a discount section throughout the year which I regularly check during the growing season, but the largest reductions can be found in mid-fall when most nurseries are clearing out the summer stock and getting rid of items that didn’t sell.

I’ll grant you that these cast offs are not always in great condition. I look carefully for signs of disease before I take them home, and usually I can assume that after a season of mild neglect my finds will be pot-bound, water deficient, water logged, or just plain ratty. Still, if you accept the challenges of adopting strays, the bargains aren’t bad.

I will buy showpiece plants for a price. I love colorful witchhazels and novel conifers that cannot normally be found on sale. But since my goals are focused upon the established of large groups of plants of a given color or texture, and less upon the pedigree, my approach works well for my budget.

A little knowledge of plant disease, plant care, and the lifespan of the average seed can assist with making intelligent selections.

My bargain shopping is also supplemented by propagation through cuttings taking from my property and those of willing donors, from seeds I’ve collected, and from freebies I encounter now and then through gardening groups or plant salvage programs. Once, I encountered a basket of free seed packages at an indoor plant store in Seattle. No one noticed them until I pounced upon the prize, whereupon I was quickly joined by a small group plowing eagerly through packages of herb and vegetable seeds from that season that were set to expire. Nevertheless, most of them sprouted.

In January, I’m ready to begin ordering bunches of bareroot stock from the local conservation district for about $1 a stem and grow them up in pots for later planting.

Photos from a Morning Walk in Mid-Fall

Acer palmatum, one of my sale plants, lights up an otherwise dark conifer grove off the deck.

 
 

 

 

 

Hamamelis x intermedia glows a deep orange.

 

 

 

Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Arnold’s Promise’ grows opposite the driveway from ‘Janela’ and offers bright yellow leaves and flowers in addition to a fragrant scent that carries a long way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) leaves and berries behind the rich green of heath (Erica sp.)

 

Bright jewel-like berries of the aptly-named beauty berry (Callicarpa sp.)

 

 

Reddish leaves of Viburnum opulus L. var. americanum (American highbush cranberry) in the foreground beneath yellow-leaved cherries imported by my father as seed from North Carolina 40 years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

I refuse to use herbicides for weed control, and here is why.

 

Pacific Chorus Frog, aka Pacific Tree Frog (Pseudacris regilla) stuck to a window

Tree frog in my plastic greenhouse.

As a master gardener trainee, and as a student of horticulture at a local community college, I was consistently presented with the idea of Integrated Pest Management. The IPM approach does not eschew the use of pesticides and herbicides, but it encourages alternative approaches to their use. This implicitly acknowledges the dangers of improper use or overuse, and reading between the lines, may be some acknowledgement of the dangers of even proper use.

I admit to using pesticides in the case of treating buildings for termites and carpenter ants. But then, with proper maintenance, this would not be so much of an issue. In the garden, I may use Deadline for slugs although I am considering quitting this habit as well.

I’ve never felt the need to use herbicides because in my previous small urban garden plots, I never needed them.

Now, I face a weed control issue of magnanimous proportions. I’ve got everything here: reed canary grass,  English ivy, scotch broom, and various grasses and weeds that invade my new beds and exponentially increase my maintenance work.

My place is also a home for hundreds if not thousands of tree frogs. These tiny amphibians start out life in lake and surrounding wetlands, but during the summer, the explore the upland areas as well, and can be found hundreds of feet from water on the warmest days. Mowing and weed-whacking become a challenge as I attempt to dodge the little green hoppers that fly out of the grass before me.

Herbicides are often used in the PNW for reed canary grass control. This invasive grass is generally found in moist areas and can destroy entire wetlands by distributing its creeping rhizomes to form a nearly impermeable mat. I’ve seen the damage myself, and seen small water courses otherwise useful for fish completely filled by this introduced grass. Yet several studies have found that at least one common herbicide has the potential to kill tadpoles on contact and may affect other elements of aquatic ecosystems, including oxygen levels and even predator-prey interactions.

I would vote for patience over parsimony in most any case for which herbicide offers a quick solution. I mow and pull the reed canary grass on my land, and have considered deploying black plastic to kill back other populations long enough to use interplanting to shade it out. Agencies with short fiscal timelines will often advocate broad-use applications of herbicides to get more immediate results. Many will argue the long-term effects are minimal. Yet I would argue that there is plenty we don’t know about the comprehensive impacts of the chemicals that we use. Studies of biodiversity and chemical controls suggest that we may be altering our ecosystems in ways we don’t completely understand (e.g. http://www.moraybeedinosaurs.co.uk/neonicotinoid/Pesticides_and_the_loss_of_biodiversity.pdf). Instead, we are left wondering why our frog populations are disappearing. One species may not have an effect noticeable to us, but that is because we usually aren’t looking.

The Pacific tree frog is, in my years of observations, the most common frog out here. In fact, I don’t see any other frog species on the island and usually only tree frogs elsewhere around the Puget Sound. What will fill its place?

Casual use of herbicides by homeowners, or even as a primary tool for habitat restoration, may not be worth the cost. The stakes aren’t high enough if the goal is to save time and reduce labor.  I’d rather keep the frogs.

 

Why I don’t use herbicides


A New Start

I’ll take the moving of the green house May 2013 as the time that begin my drive to firm up my finances so that I could once again support my father and I without my having to work at my tedious job. It also symbolized a new willingness to take chances and make greater efforts to find my place in life, four years to the month that I returned from California and began this blog to document my efforts to create a 10 acre garden. I finally quit my job in early September, and found a new peace with myself and my search for fulfillment that remains somehow grounded with this territory that is now mine.

How Do You Move a Greenhouse?

This glass monument to new beginnings was originally erected behind the main house beneath towering Douglas firs. Over the 30 + years that the thing sat there, essentially unused, the trees grew to completely shade it. When I returned, I built planters and grew seedlings that, in the absence of enhanced light, grew tall and spindly. Basement tenants used it to store junk.

 

On the eve of the arrival of new tenants and my renovation of the entire house, I hired the same contractor that redid the deck to move the greenhouse. None of us knew quite what we were doing. The original idea was to jack up the 10′ x 17′ structure and move it, glass and all, on a low trailer.  This was later abandoned when we concurred that the twisting of the aluminum frame would shatter the glass. That, and the sheer weight of the glass would have made it unmanageable.

After a day spent removing glass, the contractor – a very lively 79-year-0ld – and his co-worker son used ladders and plastic pipe to alternately lift and roll the structure up onto a flatbed trailer.  The frame tended to twist and bend, in addition to being heavier than we’d imagined. Furthermore, the wheel wells of the trailer prevented the frame from sliding all the way to the front. The front end of the greenhouse began to sag down to the ground, door flapping, as we descended the first hill.

At the time, I had two real estate agents looking at the house. Together they, plus myself, jumped onto the tongue of the trailer while the son walked behind to hold up the end. We proceeded this way at about 3 mph over the 1,000 ft distance to the top of the hill and the sunniest place on the property.

The old foundation was a brick patio with low cement walls. The new one is made of 4×4’s upon which the frame now sits. I am now in the process of installing a brick floor over sand. Most of the brick was free; the rest I had to buy at a local used materials yard for .50 each. Most of the glass survived the removal, but quite a bit of it did not survive my clumsy efforts to relocate it by wheelbarrow (you’d be amazed how much the stuff weighs – I’d say the glass alone was at least 1,000 lbs).

The contractor loves this greenhouse! He figured it was cheaper to move it (about $1,800 including replacement glass, 4×4’s and brick) than to buy a new one of the same quality. It appears to have been custom made, which has proven to make reconstruction slow as we hunt about for the correct size of aluminum strip to fit over the edge of each glass panel. The son started out labeling the glass panes with tape, but it turns out that all of the panels are interchangeable and have been merciful cut to even sizes with no fractions of an inch.

I’ve got about 15 panels left to replace, some of which I will attempt to cut on my own.

The electrical system once powered fans and a heater, but my father abandoned these long ago and they have rusted beyond repair. I’m looking into the possibility of solar fans, and a cheaper way to heat it than electricity.

 

 

 

The Design Possibilities

This is my new start at marketing landscape designs. I want to integrate the greenhouse into a larger scale design that compliments its straight, clean lines. In other words, the structure demands a level of uniformity that I’ve not yet achieved in my free-flowing, more naturalistic designs. Plus I’m seeking more enduring solutions to reducing weeds, which take up much of my time to control at the moment.  Considerations include cement or brick extensions along the sides that will reduce mud and weeds, and allow the placement of outside planters. Grass strips and a more formal pathway to the barn will also create a sense of formality and organized progression from one part of the garden to the other.

And the frame over the oil tank will have to go. Sorry Dad. They call it progress.

 

 

 

How to Move a Greenhouse